Thursday, 26 December 2024

Koffie & a Pile of Old Rocks (Nicely Arranged)

"Is there a way the Dutch prefer to take their coffee? I was just going to get a cappuccino but..."

"They love hot chocolate here," Kendon says.

I glare. 

There was a series of winters almost a decade ago when I would be very excited to drink hot chocolate but only get as far as acquiring hot chocolate mix, and subsequently giving it to Kendon because food I couldn't finish usually went to him. He is lactose intolerant and was doing me a huge favor. Ten boxes worth of favors. Now I don't hear the end of it. 

(Understandable.)

"What's this? Koffie Verkeerd?" I look to him for translation. He shrugs. 

I point my phone's camera at the menu to translate. 

"No... this can't be right."

"What does it say?" Kendon asks.

"Wrong coffee?"

"Try zooming out, sometimes it needs the whole phrase..."

"Um... it says... wrong coffee."

We laugh. Our best guess is that it's a play on words about the process of making the drink itself (a macchiato). Maybe adding espresso last is incorrect.

A few hours later, we are winding through the city of Maastricht, Netherlands. We briefly explore their Christmas market, but decide to walk around the city center instead because we can't hear each other. 

We talk about life and research projects and the buildings around us and our shifting styles and how I'm holding up after my dad's death. I tell him about how all my energy is going into holding myself together, how much I miss my dad, and how grateful I feel to love and be loved by my friends. 

Eventually we end up in a place I have a homing beacon for--a pile of old rocks. This one was arranged in the shape of a cathedral. 

The Basilica of St. Servatius is a major pilgrimage site for Catholic people, and has a collection of holy relics. It also has two Michelin stars, but not for their basement cafe (which I was happy to see is wheelchair accessible). I learned that heritage sites can also get Michelin stars, though I couldn't in good conscience rank world heritage sites.


We wandered again and found another one. The Basilica of Our Lady was built in the 11th century and was possibly a Roman temple to Jupiter before a church was built here. It seems to have been a "rival" of the Basilica of St. Servatius, and because the latter seems to have been favored by the emperors of the Holy Roman Empire, there haven't been as many resources dedicated to researching and recording its history. It was overtaken by the French army in 1794, and restored in 1917 by Dutch architect Pierre Cuypers. I wonder if he had access to any paintings or texts about what this cathedral looked like when it was built to guide the restoration.





Wednesday, 25 December 2024

Heiligabend im Flugzeug / Christmas Eve on a Plane

"Oh man I'm so linguistically unprepared," I type into my phone. "This is the first time I'm linguistically unprepared after knowing I should be prepared."

I didn't know I should be prepared in 2011 when I went to Greece not knowing how to read or speak in Greek. The consistent feeling of not truly being able to engage with the people or environment around me made me commit to knowing at least the basics of the language whenever I travel. So I've practiced Italian and Polish and Japanese and Korean. I've kept up with Italian because I like it.

But my trip to Germany is sort of last minute, and I don't have the time or mental energy to learn German on my own.

"This is the first time you're traveling to another country like a normal person," Adi responds. Julia's "like a true American" hits my inbox soon after. 


I settle into my seat and prepare for my 9 hour flight to Munich. I want to try and sleep now even though it's only 4pm because it's after midnight in Germany. But I also need to eat dinner, which will take a couple of hours. 

I decide to watch "Das perfekte Geheimnis", a German comedy from 2019, on the plane. Periodically, when words are repeated enough, I rewind a few seconds and practice them under my breath.

Unfortunately they're words like scheiße, danke, nein, kuss, and "spektakuläre anekdote" said very sarcastically.

No matter. Progress is progress.
 
I'm somewhere over Coral Harbour and Igloolik in Northeastern Canada. Soon I'll be above Greenland. 6 hours from now I'll be in Munich.

***

After a long nap, I begin looking for a German TV show with English subtitles. Finding one becomes increasingly frustrating as I realize subtitles aren't available in any language even when the German dubs are avaliable for English shows. So, I watch the one thing I know almost word for word:

Water... Earth... Fire... Luft.

Luft? Huh.

Kendon's hand-written notes for language practice 



Friday, 30 October 2020